Road to Damascus

History was made on several fronts on Dec 7 as two cardinals from the Syro Malabar Eastern Catholic Church walked into St Peter’s Basilica, wearing black instead of the traditional red, consistent with their oriental roots. This marked the first time the Church had two cardinals simultaneously and signalled a shift towards embracing their distinct identity within the Catholic communion.

The Syro Malabar Church, one of 23 Eastern Oriental Catholic Churches in full communion with Rome, had not previously established distinctive vestments for its bishops and cardinals. However, with the elevation of George Jacob Koovakad as the Church’s fifth cardinal, a departure from Latin traditions became apparent. Cardinal Koovakad and cardinal George Alencherry wore black robes with red caps, diverging from the scarlet attire of their Latin counterparts. This marked a significant moment, as the Church’s previous three cardinals had adhered to Latin traditions, including scarlet birettas and cassocks. When Alencherry was made cardinal, his attire was also similar, consisting of a red cassock and a red, shortened version of the mitre that resembled a biretta.

The new attire, designed by Fr Jacob Kooroth, who holds a doctorate in iconography from the Pontifical Oriental Institute in Rome, reflects the Church’s growing emphasis on its Eastern Christian heritage. “The design closely resembles the vestments traditionally worn by other oriental churches in India, such as the Marthoma, Orthodox, and Jacobite Churches, which share similar traditions,” explained Fr Kooroth. “At the same time, it maintains a distinctive character. We incorporated red piping and lining on the robe consistent with the red used for cardinals. The headgear is also inspired by oriental traditions, akin to the caps used in the Assyrian Church,” he said. According to Fr Kooroth, black symbolizes the renunciation of worldly attachments, while scarlet is traditionally used to indicate Christ’s martyrdom and the elevation of the cardinal as a prince of the Church.

The vestments were tailored by Sinoj Philip, whose family has been crafting ecclesiastical garments for generations. “I went to take the measurements of both bishops before making the garments,” said Philip, proprietor of St Antony’s Embroidery Works. “We create vestments for all denominations, working with fabrics ranging from velvet to jacquard. For the cardinals, we used a blend of polyester and cotton to ensure the robes were lightweight, free-flowing, and wrinkle-resistant. The material is mostly imported from Greece,” he added. Philip further said that efforts were made to minimize the weight of the headgear. “We used fibre molding as the base, covered it with cloth, and added sponge for comfort. It took three days to complete two sets of the vestments,” he said. The Church initially provided six design options before finalizing the one used, he added.

Fr Kooroth explained that the initiative to develop unique vestments stemmed from Rome’s encouragement for oriental churches to emphasize their distinct traditions. “Even during the recent anointment, Cardinal Mykola Bychok, a member of the Ukrainian Greek Catholic Church, wore his Church’s traditional headgear,” he said. The design received special approval from the major archbishop, with a formal ratification by the Synod expected next year. This could pave the way for a broader revamp of clergy attire within the Syro Malabar Church, with bishops potentially adopting similar black robes.

“If this design is adopted for bishops as well, the purple of their fascia could be incorporated into the lining and piping,” said Fr Kooroth. “Bishops Joseph Srampickal and Joseph Kallarangatt have occasionally been seen wearing similar robes. The Holy See is increasingly emphasizing the importance of preserving the distinctiveness of particular Churches. The Pope personally encouraged Mar Koovakad to use vestments reflecting the traditions of his Church,” he said.

However, the change has not been universally welcomed. Critics, particularly from the Ernakulam-Angamaly archdiocese, have voiced concerns over the lack of Synodal approval and perceived overemphasis on orientalism. “This can only be seen as an example of obsession with orientalism,” said Fr Jose Vailikodath.

The significance of this development extends beyond attire, symbolizing a deeper assertion of the Syro Malabar Church’s heritage within the Catholic communion. Cardinal Koovakad’s upcoming installation at his titular church in Via Appia will further highlight this identity, as he dons the vestments to formally assume his new role.