Couture and controversy: Karoline Leavitt’s 'Made in China' dress sparks a diplomatic row

When politics meets the runway, expect sparks especially if the dress in question is a crystal-embellished mini worth nearly ₹40,000. White House Press Secretary Karoline Leavitt became an unexpected style headline when a sleek red-and-black Self-Portrait waffle knit mini she wore during a January press briefing turned into an international talking point, thanks to a Chinese diplomat with a flair for fashion receipts.

Zhang Zhisheng, China’s Consul General in Denpasar, Indonesia, took to X (formerly Twitter) to share a photo of Leavitt’s ensemble alongside Weibo screenshots where textile workers in Mabu, China, claimed the very dress she wore was made in their factory. “Accusing China is business. Buying China is life,” Zhang quipped, noting the lace on Leavitt’s dress was unmistakably theirs.

Suddenly, a dress meant to command attention in the briefing room was the centrepiece of a global trade spat.

Critics quickly jumped to Leavitt’s defence, dismissing the viral claims as misidentification—or worse, counterfeit. “Don’t worry, what she’s wearing is the real deal, not that cheap ‘Made in China’ knockoff,” one user fired back. Another added: “You mean stolen by China, I think.”

But the diplomat had receipts, literally. He shared a listing confirming that the Self-Portrait dress, a cult-favourite label founded by Malaysian-Chinese designer Han Chong, is indeed produced in China. “Self-Portrait, brand registered in UK, created by a Malaysian Chinese designer, made in China,” Zhang wrote, sending fashion Twitter into a spiral of hot takes.

Retailing at $467 (₹39,983), the dress is one of Self-Portrait’s most popular silhouettes - crystal trim, sculpted knit, and all the flirty coquette energy you’d expect from a designer beloved by royals and red carpets alike. But what makes this moment so telling is the irony: even amid escalating trade tensions, fashion like supply chains, doesn’t recognise borders.

The debate over Leavitt’s dress comes on the heels of China’s President Xi Jinping warning that “no one wins in a trade war,” as he embarked on a Southeast Asian diplomatic tour. Meanwhile, Donald Trump, known for his “America First” rhetoric and sky-high tariffs, made headlines of his own this time, not for trade policy, but for allegedly staging a bizarre optical illusion to appear taller. Yes, really.
And yet, the dress drama speaks volumes: global fashion is rarely black and white. Labels may be British, designers may be Malaysian, and yes factories may still be in China.

For Karoline Leavitt, whose press room ensembles are typically sharp and structured, this red-and-black mini was clearly meant to send a message. But in 2024’s hyper-connected, geopolitically charged fashion landscape, even a choker neckline can trigger a trade debate.

As fashion insiders know, “Made in China” isn’t shorthand for knockoffs anymore. Some of the most coveted designer pieces from Dior to The Row, are quietly produced there. The real question isn’t where your outfit is made. It’s who’s paying attention when you wear it.
In a world where one dress can trigger a diplomatic spar, Karoline Leavitt didn’t just walk into a press briefing, she walked into a fashion firestorm. And whether it’s couture politics or power dressing diplomacy, one thing’s clear: style still speaks louder than sanctions.