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From Aksharamala to Ajrakh patches...Classic kasavu gets a colourful, trendy makeover

From Aksharamala to Ajrakh patches...Classic kasavu gets a colourful, trendy makeover

Gopika Is / Updated: Apr 11, 2025, 18:20 IST

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From Aksharamala to Ajrakh patches...Classic kasavu gets a colourful, trendy makeover

While styles may come and go, the bond between the Malayali and kasavu remains timeless. In fact, kasavu is the heart of every celebration in Kerala. This Vishu, the fabric has evolved with flair �?from the iconic Puliyilakkara set mundu to bespoke Kerala saris, rich with woven motifs. Designers are adding a splash of yellow, a color long synonymous with the festival, into their creations. Even menswear is embracing the season, with bold prints of flowers, dragonflies, lamps, and elephants making their mark. Here’s a sneak peek at the latest trends this Vishu...
The return of the Puliyilakkara border
A thin kasavu border (kara), once favoured by the older generation, is now making a comeback. Today, many are opting for this simple yet timeless detail on their set mundus. “When we relaunched it with our own signature style, we didn’t expect high demand, but people prefer understated borders like Puliyilakkara now. Set mundus with such borders were daily wear for our older generation, and most of the younger generation is probably not even aware of how it was used. Today, people prefer it for its understated elegance,�?says Supriya Kondayath, a designer and fashion entrepreneur.

The saree with lines from the poem Vishukkani on it. Credit: Ithal.India

Aksharamala to poems: Weaving language into festive wear
Festive wear is also becoming a way to reconnect younger generations with the rich legacy of the Malayalam language. Designer Chitra Priyadarshini, who made waves with her Aksharamala (Malayalam alphabet) saris last Onam, has now embroidered lines from Vyloppilli Sreedhara Menon’s iconic poem, Vishukkani, onto her creations. “This is our unique take, different from anything out there. Vyloppilli is a personal favorite of mine, and I hope that when someone wears this sari, it sparks a conversation about the poem �?allowing the lines to live beyond the fabric,�?says Chitra. "These saris are worn only during Onam or Vishu. Handloom saris with woven-in elements will cost more than saris with embroidery, so it’s a personal choice to opt for either," she said.
Kanikonna, the heart of Vishu
While some designers are opting for delicate embroidery, others are bringing the beauty of the golden shower flowers to life through prints and hand-painted designs.

Kanikonna pattern on a blouse Credit: Ithal.India

Poll

Are you excited about the return of the Puliyilakkara border in set mundus?

Not really.Absolutely!

It’s all in the motifs!
From vibrant flowers (mainly kanikonna and lotus) to majestic peacocks and elephants, this Vishu, saris are coming alive with motifs that celebrate Kerala’s rich heritage. They are either woven in or embroidered, depending on the creative preferences, demand and prices.
Traditional menswear, too, gets fashionable
Apart from the mundu, which is available in thin and wide karas and in various styles, shirts featuring Vishu and Kerala elements are now available in the market. “Texture and colour of clothes are very important now. People want to be fashionable while staying connected to their roots. So, when I design something for Vishu, I blend the culture of my native place with Vishu. This time around, I added dragonflies �?a symbol of our childhood �?to one of our shirts,�?says Nikhil Nandan, a designer and fashion entrepreneur based in Thrissur.

From soft creams and yellows to mint greens, Vishu-inspired contemporary wear are coming in eye-catching options Credit: Muziris.official

A colourful upgrade with ajrakh patches
Ajrakh patches, designers say, can add a burst of colour to both saris and salwars. “Comfort and trends should always go hand in hand,�?says Sruthy Nair, a designer. “This time, we’ve used cotton handloom fabrics for our designs, and even repurposed tailoring waste to create these patches. Not only are they sustainable, but they also bring a lively pop of color and embellishment to our pieces,�?she explains.

Kurti with Ajrakh patch Credit: Byhand.in

Polka has never been more colourful
Polka dots have long been a staple in kasavu designs, often in the form of golden accents. However, a fresh wave of experimentation is taking place as designers are now incorporating a burst of vibrant colors into the traditional pattern. “We had experimented using colourful polka dots, which were printed, on skirts earlier. This time, since we made the saris colourful, and we’ve used golden polka dots,�?says Supriya Kondayath.

Colour border saree with golden polka dots Credit: PichakamWeaves

Kerala Vibes in Maheshwari silk!
Maheshwari silk, traditionally from Madhya Pradesh, is now being woven to capture the essence of the classic Kerala sari, and the demand is strong, according to designers. “It mimics the look of a Kerala sari perfectly,�?says Rajendraprasad Karazhma, a fashion entrepreneur.

Designers are using traditional elements, even incorporating hand painted kanikonna into Tussar silk saris Credit :Byhand.in

Modern wear, too, gets a Vishu twist!
Vishu festive wear has evolved beyond traditional saris, and is now embracing a wide range of styles like frocks, dress sets, salwar suits, and skirts. Tissue fabric is a popular choice for these designs, often with exciting new colour experiments.